Luang Prabang is a placethe old Royal capital of an ancient kingdom but it is also a mood. This is what makes it so extraordinary. It’s a place you feel as well as see. It’s a town with the remnants of French colonialism. A town with a skyline silhouetted with temple spires and stupas, and with a fine, unparalleled view overlooking the Mekong River. It’s a town that serves as the meeting place for indigenous people, many hilltribe folk. A town with a way of life so unique that UNESCO designated it a World Heritage Site in 1995. Luang Prabang was the seat of the first independent Lao kingdom (Lan Xang) in the 14th century, and was off and on a royal capital for 600 years prior to the Communist takeover in 1975. It a town where things happen in slow motion.
To capture the mood of Luang Prabang is simple enough. The fun is spending time strolling aimlessly through the streets and back alleyways, eating baguette sandwiches, watching the stars come out above the golden stupa on Phou Si, or just sit contentedly at one of the sidewalk cafes on Sisavangvong Avenue and watch the passing parade of foreigners and local people. Just like the Champs Elysees in Paris, except you can make it a late night affair. The town folds up about ten every evening. Even the lights go out.
With all these things in its favour, if peace and quiet is what you are looking for, why had Luang Prabang kept its secret from the world for so long? The answer is quite simple—getting there was the problem. Well, that problem was solved when Thai Airways International added Luang Prabang to its international routes. Today Luang Prabang is as close as the nearest airport.
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Once the Royal capital of Laos, Luang Prabang is a reminder of the old Orient, and it’s French colonial atmosphere is seen everywhere. Those who know the town love it for its laid-back, easy-going atmosphere, but that doesn’t mean it lacks interest for the sightseer. The sites and tourist attractions are endless. After all, UNESCO wouldn’t have chosen Luang Prabang as a World Heritage Site if it didn’t have something going for it. It’s interesting to note, as part of the UNESCO plan, new buildings have been limited and development must be in keeping with this magical place.
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Luang Prabang itself, for all practical purposes, is a museum, but not one of those museums that hides behind closed doors, one that’s roped off and has restricted visiting hours. Luang Prabang is a living museum, very much alive, open to everyone. It’s a royal town of an ancient kingdom. It’s a survivor of French colonialism. It thrives with two major markets, and a few smaller ones, where tribal peoples from the mountains gather everyday, arriving by fail boats on the river or via mountain roads. The town comes alive at sunrise, when monks march through the streets to receive alms, and where the scent is smoky cooking fires and fragrant dishes being prepared for breakfast.
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Along the finger of Luang Prabang bordered by the Mekong and Khan rivers are a string of temples, some fourteen in all. Nearest lies Wat Xieng Thong, one of the oldest and largest temples in the town. Over 400 years old and a classic of Luang Prabang temple architecture with its low-slung roof eaves and gold-leaf ornamentation, it has strong royal connections.
Wat Mai Suwannaphumaham is worth a visit, especially at dusk when your are likely to hear the murmuring chants of monks praying. Wat Mai is renowned for its religious artwork, much of it in gold leaf. Next to Wat Mai is the Royal Palace Museum, which is housed in a mansion that was once the royal palace. It’s interesting to see how humble and sparsely royal families once lived.
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Standing like a guardian above Luang Prabang is the holy hill called Phou Si, surrounded by smaller temples at the lower level. A 15-minute climb to the summit leads to That Comsi, a stupa where some royal remains are kept. Sun rise or sunset is the best time to visit Phou Si. The views of the town, the Mekong River and its tributary, the Khan River, and the surrounding mountains are most striking at this vantage point. Don’t forget your camera.
Luang Prabang is not a night town, except for a few hotels that host discos, but there are some fine restaurants, especially those along Phothisalat Road. The focus, naturally, is on Lao food and local specialties, although it's possible to get Western food. Hardly anyplace in town can you escape the smell of French bakeries. Every noodle shop, no matter how small, will have a basket of baguettes on the table, and they go well with a cup of Lao tea. Wisunalat Street has a few of the better, well-established restaurants and cafes.
Travel outside Luang Prabang can be difficult, although boat trips are easy to arrange, with visits to riverside villages and Pak Ou Cave temple. A visit to Pak Ou Cave makes travelling to Luang Prabang worth a visit, if for no other reason.
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Luang Nam Tha is a good base for trekking and river trips, although the town itself doesn¹t have much to offer. The best time to visit these places is during a festival. In the winter months Luang Prabang, surrounded by mountains, can be downright cold, making it a welcoming change from the rest of Southeast Asia. An important point to remember, however, is that Luang Prabang is small, and just about everywhere can be reached by foot. Walking and travelling by bicycle is the best way to see this unique city, a city where time seems to stand still. And THAI can take you there. THAI has three flights a week from Chiang Mai to Luang Prabang, operating on Monday, Thursday and Saturday, with return flights the same day. Visas can be obtained at the airport in Luang Prabang upon arrival.
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Note: The article is the personal view of the writer and does not necessarily reflect the view of Thai Airways International Public Company Limited.
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