Oslo: Where Vikings once Sailed and where THAI Airways Now FliesPrepared by Harold Stephens
Travel Correspondent for Thai Airways International
As your plane descends from the clouds and enters the landing pattern on its final approach to Oslo, you soon realize this Nordic capital is a water town with a seagoing past. And the good news is that Thai Airways International now flies there from Bangkok.
Situated at the head of a fjord shaped like a swan's neck, the port of Oslo is surrounded by low hills. From aloft you can get a panoramic view of the region. Small islands appear on all horizons, and ferries zigzag back and forth leaving long wakes upon blue‑green water. When you look down at the fjords and the maze of waterways, it becomes clear why the Norwegians were such great seamen. Necessity made them that way.
History books tell us that Oslo, called Christiania until 1905, was officially established in 1048. But old-timers will tell you that the town was actually born in 1980, or thereabouts. Oslo before that, they say, was not a very pleasant place to live, or to visit. To prove the point, visit the National Museum of Art and look at the paintings of Edvard Munch, Norway's most famous artist. His subject, men and women, are all dressed in black, their hat brims pulled down low, and their faces chalk white. To him the people of Oslo were like the living dead.
Edvard Munch left Oslo for greener pastures as did many other Norwegians with talent. The attractions that Oslo did have were all imported. The only real cultural diversions were a few museums based around explorers and skiers. There was definitely no night life. The little fun that was offered to tourists and Oslonians was taken away by severely curbed drinking hours. The city literally closed at midnight. Travellers who did go to Norway used to give Oslo no more than a passing glance as they steamed through on their way to Bergen and the more spectacular scenery of the west coast fjords.
But then things happened. The Nordic City of Light has come of age. The oil boom, they say, was in part responsible for its renaissance, and with it came more money for the arts. Soon there were sufficient amusements and happenings at home to make talent want to return. Oslo today bears little resemblance to the dim place it was when Munch captured his impressions on canvas. He might have a totally different perspective were he to come back today.
Oslo is the capital of Norway but it’s not a big city by world standards. It has a population of only 450,000 and, until recently, the vast majority lived in its far-flung suburban areas. Today it’s a city filled with surprises.
The best place to begin a tour of Oslo is the downtown waterfront area. Buy a good map, but a word of caution. Find a map that has English translations. Imagine trying to decipher names like Sjomannsskolen and Vestbanstrasjonen.
The National Theatre seems to be the centre of things in Oslo. From there it's a short walk to the Radhus, or City Hall, and the waterfront beyond.
There are very few tall buildings in this capital so your view will be dominated by the Radhus. It is a large, mud‑coloured building topped by two square towers making it useful as a landmark. The courtyard is adorned with fantastic figures and symbols from Norwegian mythology, while the mosaics inside are based around more modern themes.
The Aker Brygge marks the edge of the harbour. It's a vast glass and chrome complex that contains an urban mall filled with shops, bars, restaurants, food stalls, theatres and galleries. There is an open‑air sculpture court at its heart. And for certain a McDonalds.
On warm days people stroll along a boardwalk that follows the harbour. There are benches for resting, or for people watching, which seems to be a favorite pasttime. Office workers take their lunches in the open air cafes.
At the many piers there’s always amusement, watching the ferries and fishing boats coming in to moor, and sight‑seeing cruisers taking off for places unknown. The atmosphere is very relaxed.
On a hill overlooking the harbour is the mediaeval Akershus Fortress. Built originally in 1308, it helped protect old Christiania from pirates and marauders throughout the periods of Danish and Swedish dominance.
The Nazis took over the fortress during the occupation of Norway (1940‑45). They shot several Norwegian resistance fighters along the wall by the old magazine. When the war was over, the traitorous Norwegian chancellor, Quisling, was shot on the same spot. The Resistance Museum in the grounds gives us a good picture of the intense story of occupied Norway.
Stone paths through the grounds of the fortress lead to crenellated walls that open to the town below. It's an impressive view. Moored at the docks below the walls are some of the oldest wooden sailing vessels still in use in the world. One magnificent schooner dates back to 1854. Most vessels are open for charter.
West of the harbour is the Bygdoy peninsula, where the old Viking ships and other Norwegian sailing crafts are kept. Explorer Thor Heyerdahl's famous Kon Tiki is on display here. It's the famous balsa‑wood raft that, in 1947, floated across the Pacific hoping to prove the theory that the Polynesian islanders originated from South America and migrated to the Pacific. There is also on display the Egyptian reed boat Ra that Heyerdahl used on a later expedition.
Boating enthusiasts will love Oslo. One can hardly see more boats in any other city round the world than in Oslo. Every fjord and every water inlet is jammed with pleasure craft of some sort. From anywhere on the harbour, you will see how much Norwegians love and use their boats. On weekends the fjord becomes a flotilla of billowing sails and speeding motor launches.
Away from the harbour the streets are lined with neoclassical buildings dating mainly from the 19th century and newer concrete and glass structures. Oslo's many fires are to blame for the fact that there are so few authentic wooden buildings left.
Oslo's streets are made for walking. The attractions are as much the people themselves as the shops and stores. One can spend hours listening to street entertainers, such as one‑man bands, which seem popular. These solo entertainers can strum a banjo, play a harmonica or else sing, and keep rhythm on a drum that they tap with a cord fastened to their feet. You might hear that they play New Orleans jazz as great as any jazz band in New Orleans can do.
Oslo’s most fascinating street is also its main street, Karl Johansgate. For much of its length it is a pedestrian street and a busy central artery for shoppers. At its western limit it becomes part of the broad avenue leading to the doors of the palace. On National Day, May 17, a parade of thousands of children march down the street to the palace to be greeted by the king.
Parallel to Karl Johansgate is Grensen, another busy, shop‑lined street. Oslo's Domkirke, the main cathedral dating back to 1697, dominates a big market square at the east end of Grensen. On the map it's marked Stortorvet.
The exterior of the cathedral is of darkened brown brick. Inside is an organ five storeys high. Artists of the 18th, 19th, and 20th centuries have contributed to the cathedral's adornment, making it an important display of Norwegian church architecture and interior design. Behind Domkirke is a round, colonnaded market with food and handicraft stalls.
Oslo has developed into a city of music. The Philharmonic, whose home is the Konserthus on Munkedasveien, another name‑twister, performs with a variety of guest conductors and soloists from the world over. Every August there is an international jazz festival, and in September the Performing Arts Festival.
Oslo can be expensive but the cautious traveller can make his krona go farther with care. Use public transportation rather than travel by taxi, and purchase an "Oslo Card." The card works as a travel pass with such things as museum discounts. Even many hotels give discounts for pass holders. The key is don't be afraid to ask and find out what comes with your room. You may discover you are entitled to free laundry, afternoon tea, and almost certainly, as in most hotels in Norway, breakfast comes with the room.
And as a last reminder, THAI now flies to Oslo. QUESTIONS & ANSWERSQ. A note came from Thailand Tourism Authority asking if I would make the announcement below, which I am glad to do.
THAI GOVERNMENT EXTENDS VISA FEE WAIVING TO ONE YEAR
Bangkok, 2 July 2009 — Continuing its efforts to expedite the revival of the Thai travel and tourism industry, the Royal Thai Government has agreed to extend the exemption of the visa fee for tourist visa applications until 4 March 2010.
The exemption will apply to all applications for visas on arrival at all international airports in Thailand as well as those applying at Thai embassies and consulates abroad for stays longer than the period for which they are normally eligible.
Thailand presently gives a Visa on Arrival for citizens of 20 countries for a stay not exceeding 15 days. Citizens of another 42 countries are allowed a visa-free stay in Thailand not over 30 days.
Those who wish to stay longer than those periods have to apply for visas at the Thai embassies or diplomatic missions abroad before their arrival in Thailand.
The extension is one of several measures taken by the Thai tourism industry to revive itself in the wake of a number of global and local events that have led to a temporary decline in visitor arrivals.
Harold Stephens
Bangkok
E-mail: ROH Weekly Travel (booking@inet.co.th)
Note: The article is the personal view of the writer and does not necessarily reflect the view of Thai Airways International Public Company Limited. | 
