Bhaktapur, Don't miss itPrepared by Harold Stephens
Travel Correspondent for Thai Airways International
I hate using the term “it’s a must” but in this case I will. Anyone who visits Kathmandu must visit Bhaktapur. It’s that simple. I had been to Kathmandu many times over the years, and enjoyed every visit. Kathmandu is, in fact, one of my favorite destinations. But more than thirty years had passed since I had visited Bhaktapur, yet it is only around 13 kms east of Kathmandu, no more than hour’s drive.
On my last visit to Kathmandu I decided to revisit Bhaktapur. After thirty years I had forgotten a much about the city. It all came back the moment I stepped through the main gate.
I do remember, however, thirty years ago it was different. I don’t mean the city itself, not the walls and temples, the little crowded and crooked streets––they were there, and still are. But Bhaktqpur back then hadn’t been placed on the tourist list. There were not many restaurants and hotels or inns and no guidebooks telling one about the place. It was crowded, congested with traffic and had cattle in the streets––and it wasn’t very clean. Most of us then went to look at Durbar Square and its famous pillar, and that was it. I was driving a Toyota Land Cruiser and drove right up to Durbar Square for a photo. No one objected.
So what is the difference now? Foremost, Bhaktapur is listed as a World Heritage by UNESCO for its rich culture, temples, and wood, metal and stone artwork.
As I did before, you can’t these days drive up to Durbar Square or anyplace in Bhaktapur. The entire city is sealed off to vehicular traffic. The exception, delivery lorries. There is but one main gate where visitors may enter, and there is a charge. You don’t mind paying when you see what you get––an ancient city very well preserved.
Bhaktapur is today a delightful city, and a showpiece. It’s amazing what a little cleaning can do. There are neat boutique hotels and inns, and delightful coffee shops where you can drink some wonderful Nepalese coffee and tea and look out upon the vista of a great city. I couldn’t do that thirty years ago.
Bhaktapur is not a tiny place. Its huge, an ancient city, the third largest city in Kathmandu. It valley was once the capital of Nepal during the great Malla Kingdom until the second half of the 15th century. The term "Bhaktapur" in Sanskrit means "The Town Of Devotees."
What that means is it’s the center of traditional Nepalese art and architecture. You see the art everywhere you turn, best in the historical monuments with its magnificent windows. The city is noted too for its pottery and weaving industries. It’s a world in itself to explore.
I guess what makes Bhaktapur interesting is that it’s a city that is a living museum, and by that I mean it’s real. Shops sell Nepalese things to Nepalese, and the people in their native dress are not dressed up for tourists. They dressed up for themselves.
These cultures and traditions go back to time immemorial when Bhaktapur lay on the trade route between Tibet/China and India. This position on the main caravan route made the town rich and prosperous. And it was this prosperity that fueled the cultural life. Temple builders developed a Pagoda-style, spreading it through Tibet all the way to Japan. Finest of all is the five-tiered, heaven piercing Nyatapole.
The rivalry between the three kingdoms of the Kathmandu valley extended to include arts and architecture. Some of the fabulous pieces of work can be found in the Durbar square area which is surrounded by temples and palaces. Most of the buildings were constructed during the 15th century.
Bhaktapur is a popular day-trip destination for tourists visiting Kathmandu. Lately, with more air-pollution in Kathmandu, more tourists are staying in Bhaktapur for a few days, before trekking arrangements are finished. In addition, although the Mount Everest is breathtaking and the landscape of Lord Buddha (i.e. Founder of Peace) mysterious, tourists visiting Nepal still don't feel their sojourn complete unless they have experienced Bhaktapur, Nepal's ancient "City of Culture".
Not to be confusing, there are three squares, Durbar Square, Taumadhi Square, and Dattatreya Square. Bhaktapur's main square, Durbar Square, is the most famous and certainly the most photographed. The square houses the 55-window Palace which was constructed by King Jitamitra Malla and was home to royalty until 1769. It is now a National Gallery. Close by is the Golden Gate which leads into Mulchok Court which is home to the Taleju Temple. This temple, like others in the main towns of the Kathmandu Valley, is dedicated to the goddess Taleju Bhawani and includes shrines to both the Taleju Bhawani and Kumari. Entrance to the temple is restricted to Hindus and the living goddess strictly cannot be photographed.
The Durbar square is surrounded by spectacular architecture and vividly showcases the skills of the Newari artists and craftsmen over several centuries. The royal palace was originally situated at Dattaraya square and was only later moved to the Durbar square location.
The streets of Bhaktapur are made for strolling. Most visitors make it a day trip but I strongly suggest an overnight trip. There is something powerful about Durbar Square at dawn.
QUESTIONS & ANSWERSDear Mr. Stephens. For you readers I would like to mention that Phuket has just seen the most successful Kings Cup Regatta ever with a massive fleet of 111 yachts competing in 11 classes. All were hotly contested in great conditions during the weeklong event. The event was closely followed by The Laguna Marathon on December 6th with 1000 athletes from around the world coming to compete. Finally, the invite-only Asia Superyacht Rendezvous on the 17th and 18th of December 2009 will round out the year.
The next major international public event in Phuket will be, of course, the Phuket International Boat Show (PIMEX) at Royal Phuket Marina from January 7-10, 2010. The organizers are expecting 80 exhibiting companies and 45 yachts in the water, making the show the region’s largest on-water boat show.
Mr. Andy Dowden
Show Directo
Harold Stephens
Bangkok
E-mail: ROH Weekly Travel (booking@inet.co.th)
Note: The article is the personal view of the writer and does not necessarily reflect the view of Thai Airways International Public Company Limited. | 
