Khmer Ruins at Preah Vihear on the Thai/Cambodia Border—Now OpenPrepared by Harold Stephens
Travel Correspondent for Thai Airways International
For many years I’d heard about the extraordinary Khmer ruin at Preah Vihear on the Thai/Cambodian border. The story was that it was perhaps the most dramatic of any temple in Cambodia. In 1991 there were reports that the border was open—and then we heard it was closed again. Wondering if it would ever open, I decided to take a chance and attempted to visit the site with photographer Robert Stedman. That was in1995.
We were doing our own driving and left the main highway and turned south to the town of Kantharalak. In the distance we could see the Chuor Phnom Dangkrek Mountain range loom up before us. It seemed awesome to be driving across a flat plain of low rice fields and then ahead, rising abruptly, was a ridge of mountains. The temple complex of Preah Vihear that we were seeking was somewhere up there on crest of the mountain range at an altitude of 730 metres. Historically it is quite an important site, dating from the reign of Suryavarman I who ruled from 1002 to 1049 when Europe was still in the Dark Ages. Not knowing what to expect, we were excited as school kids going to our first prom. But our expectations were short lived.
The last few kms of road were little more than a mud track of red earth. There were no signs, no markers of any sort. We came to a military shack with a pole across the road. Two armed soldiers came from the shack and, surprisingly without questions, lifted the pole and let us pass. We now entered a no-man’s land. The road became rougher and travel was reduced to a crawl. Suddenly soldiers appeared from all directions. In their dark green uniforms we were unable to tell if they were Thai or Cambodian. They blocked our way. We explained we were tourists and wanted to see the ruins. One soldier took down his rifle from his shoulder, pointed it directly at my chest, inches away, and with a smile on his face, said, with his finger on the trigger, “Ping, ping, ping.” The other soldiers laughed. We lost no time turning around and heading back into Thailand.
It was now nine years late and would the same thing happen?
Hardly. I was still apprehensive but that quickly passed. I soon learned Thailand and Cambodia have reached some sort of peace agreement following the death of Pol Pot and the banishment of the Khmer Rouge from its nearby Anglong Veng Base. Preah Vihear is now open for visitors with authorized entrance from Thailand. What’s amazing is that the ruin is almost inaccessible from Cambodia, unless, of course, one has the funds to chanter a helicopter.
The Thais have done a marvelous job in developing the area. A tarmac paved road leads right up to the border—and there abruptly stops. From there it’s hiking along a dusty trail to the ruin. Visitors may tour only the immediate surroundings of the complex as there are still plenty of land mines and live ordnance in the fields and forests nearby. We had to stick to the designated safety lanes leading to the ruins. We can’t forget that the site was the scene of heavy fighting as recently as May 1998 and numerous land mines were used by the Khmer Rouge in defending this strategic location against government forces.
It’s also interesting to note that for many years both Thailand and Cambodia claimed the territory on which this great temple complex is found. In 1963 the World Court finally awarded it to Cambodia. One might wonder if they were ‘just’ in their decision. It’s quite easy to see that Preah Vihear lies in an upland valley in the Chuor Phnom Dangkrek Mountain range and has little geographic connection with the Cambodian interior. The court argued that Preah Vihear is part of the Angkor heritage. Obviously, they didn’t consider that there are over 2000 other Khmer archaeological sites within Thailand's borders.
The site is truly impressive. It sits atop a 600-metre escarpment, and commands a dramatic view of the Cambodian plains to the east and both Laos and Thailand in the other direction. Built originally as a Hindu temple in the classic Baphuon and early Angkor Wat styles, the complex extends a linear 850 metres, encompassing four gopura and a large prasat, or sanctuary, surrounded by a courtyard and galleries at the summit. A stepped naga approach ascends approximately 120 metres from the foot of the hill to the sanctuary.
The hill itself was sacred to Khmer Hindus for at least 500 years before the completion of the temple complex that has been only semi-restored, making it even more interesting. Sometimes I have found complete restoration tends to destroy the overall appearance of a Khmer temple. Nature at work, reclaiming its own, can be as dramatic as man-made structure. During Khmer Rouge occupation, however, the temples suffered a heavy loss of artifacts that include lintels and other carvings. Fortunately the naga balustrade of around 30 metres is still intact, and here the tour begins.
Begin your climb as early as possible. In the early morning there is a cool breeze. In the afternoon it can get terribly hot. Fortunately by then we were on our way down and felt sorry for those who were arriving. There are four sites or gopuras and at times the climb can be steep. The first two gopuras have all but fallen down and many of the buildings are roofless but abundant examples of stone carvings are intact and visible. The doorways to the third gopura have been preserved and one (the inner door facing south) is surmounted by a well-executed carved stone lintel depicting Shiva and his consort Uma sitting on Nandi, Shiva's bull.
The main prasat, or topmost gopura at the summit, is indeed overpowering. The view is breathtaking and unequalled anywhere. Although the prasat is in need of major restoration, the viewer can still get an idea of its former magnificence. Many of the stone carvings from the prasat are either missing or lie buried in nearby rubble. The galleries leading to the prasat have fared better and have even kept their arched roofs. The climb to the top is well worth it even in the afternoon downpour of heat.
It is no longer difficult to enter the temple complex of Preah Vihear. You must first complete an entry form at the Thai army checkpoint and leave your passport or other identification as security. I was alarmed that I didn’t have my passport when asked for it but an old credit card sufficed. Admission fees for Thais are 5 baht for students, 50 baht for adults, and 200 baht for foreign visitors. It may be more by now. The Cambodians charge the same fees once you cross the border. The site closes at 4 pm and I heard on weekends the site is packed with hundreds of local Thai visitors.
Getting there can be somewhat difficult unless you are driving. I rented an AVIS car this time and had no trouble, except for the name of the ruin. It varies in every guidebook and on every map. Generally the accepted name is Preah Vihear but it also appears as Khao Phra Wihan, Kao Prea Vihar and Khao Phra Viharn.
There’s another advantage of driving yourself. Nearby I discovered cliff paintings that date back 3000 years. But that’s another story for another time. I did, however, cover the search for lost cities and ruins in my book “Return to Adventure Southeast Asia” for those who are interested.
Next week we are going to take a look at touring throughout northern Thailand. QUESTIONS & ANSWERSQ. Dear Mr. Stephens. I read that the islands in Burma north of Pkuket have been closed to private yachts yet in one of you story you mention diving trips into Burma. Can you please explain? James Martin, Auckland, New Zealand.
A. Dear Mr. Martin. Phuket does have a luxury live-aboard dive vessel called Ocean Rover that cruises Myanmar (Burma) waters. She 30 meters long and weighs 280 tonnes. She cruises at 10 knots. All cabins have private bathrooms and are air-conditioned. Ocean Rover’s main area of operation is the Andaman Sea off the west coast of Thailand and Myanmar, which to answer your question, includes Myanmar’s Mergui Archipelago. I haven’t been aboard but what I do hear is that she is first class. —HS
Harold Stephens
Bangkok
E-mail: ROH Weekly Travel (booking@inet.co.th)
Note: The article is the personal view of the writer and does not necessarily reflect the view of Thai Airways International Public Company Limited. | 
