Khmer Ruins at Preah Vihear on the THAI/CAMBODIA border — Soon to open AgainPrepared by Harold Stephens
Travel Correspondent for Thai Airways International
There's an extraordinary Khmer ruin at Preah Vihear on the Thai/Cambodian border. The site is now being disputed by both Thailand and Cambodia. Before telling readers about that dispute let me first mention something about Preah Vihear. For many years I wanted to visit the site but Pol Pot and his Khmer Rouge had closed its doors to foreign travel in the 1970s.
In 1991 there were reports that the border was open—and then we heard it was closed again. Wondering if it would ever open, I decided to take a chance and attempted to visit the site with photographer Robert Stedman. That was in1995.
We were doing our own driving and left the main highway and turned south to the town of Kantharalak. In the distance we could see the Chuor Phnom Dangrek Mountain range loom up before us. It seemed awesome to be driving across a flat plain of low rice fields and then ahead, rising abruptly, was a ridge of mountains. The temple complex of Preah Vihear that we were seeking was somewhere up there on the crest of the mountain range at an altitude of 730 metres. Historically it is quite an important site, dating from the reign of Suryavarman I who ruled from 1002 to 1049 when Europe was still in the Dark Ages. Not knowing what to expect, we were excited as school kids going to our first prom. But our expectations were short lived.
The last few kilometres of road were little more than a mud track of red earth. There were no signs, no markers of any sort. We came to a military shack with a pole across the road. Two armed soldiers came from the shack and, surprisingly without questions, lifted the pole and let us pass. We now entered a no-man’s land. The road became rougher and travel was reduced to a crawl. Suddenly soldiers appeared from all directions. In their dark green uniforms we were unable to tell if they were Thai or Cambodian. They blocked our way. We explained we were tourists and wanted to see the ruins. One soldier took down his rifle from his shoulder, pointed it directly at my chest, inches away, and with a smile on his face, said, with his finger on the trigger, “Ping, ping, ping.” The other soldiers laughed. We lost no time turning around and heading back into Thailand.It was now nine years later and I was making another attempt. Would the same thing happen?
Hardly. I was still apprehensive but that quickly passed. I learned Thailand and Cambodia had reached some sort of peace agreement following the death of Pol Pot and the banishment of the Khmer Rouge from its nearby Anglong Veng Base had taken place. Preah Vihear was now open for visitors with authorized entrance from Thailand. I had some surprises now waiting when I made the drive by car.
The Thais had done a marvelous job in developing the area. A tarmac paved road leads right up to the border—and there abruptly stops. From there it’s hiking along a dusty trail to the ruin. Visitors may tour only the immediate surroundings of the complex, as there are still plenty of land mines and live ordnance in the fields and forests nearby. We had to stick to the designated safety lanes leading to the ruins. We can’t forget that the site was the scene of heavy fighting as recently as May 1998 and numerous land mines were used by the Khmer Rouge in defending this strategic location against government forces.
The site is truly impressive. It sits atop a 600-metre escarpment and commands a dra?matic view of the Cambodian plains to the east and both Laos and Thailand in the other direction. Built originally as a Hindu temple in the classic Baphuon and early Angkor Wat styles, the complex extends a linear 850 metres, encompassing four gopura and a large prasat, or sanctuary, surrounded by a courtyard and galleries at the summit. A stepped naga approach ascends approximately 120 metres from the foot of the hill to the sanctuary.
The hill itself was sacred to Khmer Hindus for at least 500 years before the completion of the temple complex that has been only semi-restored, making it even more interesting. Sometimes I have found complete restoration tends to destroy the overall appearance of a Khmer temple. Nature at work, reclaiming its own, can be as dramatic as man-made structure. During Khmer Rouge occupation, however, the temples suffered a heavy loss of artifacts that include lintels and other carvings. Fortunately the naga balustrade of around 30 metres is still intact, and here the tour begins.
For those who want to visit the site, begin your climb as early as possible. In the early morning there is a cool breeze. In the afternoon it can get terribly hot. Fortunately by then we were on our way down and felt sorry for those who were arriving. There are four sites, or gopuras, and at times the climb can be steep. The first two gopuras have all but fallen down and many of the buildings are roofless but abundant examples of stone carvings are intact and vis?ible. The doorways to the third gopura have been preserved and one (the inner door facing south) is surmounted by a well-executed carved stone lintel depicting Shiva and his consort Uma sitting on Nandi, Shiva's bull.
The main prasat, or topmost gopura at the summit, is indeed overpowering. The view is breathtaking and unequalled anywhere. Although the prasat is in need of major restoration, the viewer can still get an idea of its former magnificence. Many of the stone carvings from the prasat are either missing or lie buried in nearby rubble. The galleries leading to the prasat have fared better and have even kept their arched roofs. The climb to the top is well worth it even in the afternoon downpour of heat.
Now Cambodia has temporarily closed the border, but most likely at this writing it will be open again. The border question has arisen again.
Attempts to define the border between Thailand and Cambodia began when France, which controlled the Indochina region of Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam, sought to map the area.
According to historian Dhida Saraya, France introduced the concept of borders. To survive colonization, she said, Siam opted for Western knowledge and, hence, fell into the trappings of thinking and policies set by the superpowers. France's interpretation was that any site with Khmer inscriptions belongs to the ancient Khmer empire.
In 1963 the World Court awarded Preah Vihear to Cambodia disregarding the fact that the temples lie within the Thai watershed. One might wonder if they were ‘just’ in their decision. It’s quite easy to see that Preah Vihear lies in an upland valley in the Chuor Phnom Dangrek Mountain range and has little geographic connection with the Cambodian interior. The court argued that Preah Vihear is part of the Angkor heritage. Obviously, they didn’t consider that there are over 2000 other Khmer archaeological sites within Thailand's borders. The Thais are now disputing that claim.
For travelers today, although Preah Vihear lies within Cambodian territory, visas are not required. You must first complete an entry form at the Thai army checkpoint and leave your passport or other identification as security. I was alarmed that I didn’t have my passport when asked for it but an old credit card sufficed. Admission fees for Thais are 5 baht for students, 50 baht for adults, and 200 baht for foreign vis?itors. It may be more when it is reopened.
Getting there can be somewhat difficult unless you are driving. I rented an AVIS car and had no trouble—except for the name of the ruin. It varies in every guidebook and on every map. Generally the accepted name is Preah Vihear but it also appears as Khao Phra Wihan, Kao Prea Vihar and Khao Phra Viharn.
There’s another advantage of driving yourself. Nearby I discovered cliff paintings that date back 3000 years. But that’s another story for another time. I did, however, cover the search for lost cities and ruins in my book “Return to Adventure Southeast Asia” for those who are interested.
Next week, while we are on the subject of Khmer Ruins, I would like to take readers to some of the major ones found in Thailand.
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS
Last week a reader protested by saying that Los Angles isn’t Mexico. I asked for readers opinions.
Q. Dear Mr. Stephens,
Pretty nasty letter from the Thai lady. Sadly, she's dead wrong. Of course there are other cultures in LA. However, the workforce in LA is predominately Mexican which can be seen from one of my photos that I am sending. It was taken at a rally over a year ago. According to recent studies (and there are many), nearly 55% of LA County is Mexican. Some say the unofficial total is even higher. I'd say that's a pretty big number by anyone's count. Remember, the other part of the population is made up from whites, blacks, other Latinos and Asians.
Attached are photos from my files showing a Mexican reporter interviewing a Mexican in downtown LA. And guess what? He's wearing a Mexican, not a Billabong hat! The other shot is a protest rally that shut down LA. What flag are they waving next to the stars and stripes? Mexican. And look at the language on the signs. Add to that the statistic that Spanish is the unofficial language with all documents, from the DMV to Home Depot being printed in that tongue next to English and you get the drift. Robert, LA
A. Dear Robert. Thank you for your reply, and photos. –HS
Q. Dear Mr. Stephens. I wonder if your reader has been to Las Vegas. The tourist offices of many countries could be very upset, for the signs in Vegas say VISIT VEGAS: VISIT THE WORLD. Ask your reader if the French are upset with an Eiffel Tower in downtown Vegas, or the Italians with gondolas floating on a river that is a replica of Venice. And then there is Egypt. Sincerely, Alex, New Mexico.
A. Dear Alex, Thank you. –HS
Harold Stephens
Bangkok
E-mail: ROH Weekly Travel (booking@inet.co.th)
Note: The article is the personal view of the writer and does not necessarily reflect the view of Thai Airways International Public Company Limited.
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